Bra Measuring - The Perils of Size Charts and "Plus Four"

Bra Measuring - The Perils of Size Charts and "Plus Four"

bra fitting plus four freya lauren size comparison

We've discussed the subject of bra fitting on many occasions here on the Brastop blog - from how to go about properly measuring yourself, to how to get fitted and invest in bras that conform to your body size and shape.

The importance of proper bra fitting can never be overstated or under-emphasised - for health reasons, comfort reasons, your posture, your well-being, self-confidence - and, let's not forget, your purse can suffer if you waste money on bras that don't fit.

However, far too many people still rely on the "plus four" method of measuring for a bra, and it continues to surprise us that so many companies and high street retail outlets are still favouring a method of determining your bra size based on a series of body measurements and a calculation that has it's roots in the 1950s.

Take the photograph above, for example - sent to us by one of our regular readers, Jo.

Jo visited her local House of Fraser store today, having first consulted the "How to get your perfect fitting bra" guide on their website, which relies on the "plus four" measuring method of determining your bra size.

Jo followed the instructions carefully, took down all the measurements - as guided - and then visited the store, whereby she picked out a Freya Lauren bra in the size recommended to her from the chart - a 36F.

She also picked out an identical Freya Lauren bra in her actual size - 30J - which was based on a proper fitting, and some of Jo's own personal knowledge of how bras should actually fit.

The results are quite startling - particularly in the middle image at the top (the side-on shot), which shows how badly the fit of the cups are (Jo's boobs are spilling out from the tops of the cups and the underwire is digging in to the side of her breast tissue) - and the rear image, which shows the band riding up high on Jo's back. In the front-on image, you can see how the join in the middle of the bra is pulling away from Jo's sternum.

In comparison, the image of an identical bra in 30J is pretty much a perfect fit - her breasts are fully encased in the cups, the centre-gore is flat against her breastplate, in the side-on view, there's no double-boobage - and in the rear view, the band is low across her back.

We're going to be running this as a regular feature here on the blog - relying on images from our readers and our bloggers to highlight the ridiculous nature of the "plus four" method, and highlighting the websites and stores that continue to rely on it as a method of figuring out which bra to invest your hard-earned cash in.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are online bra size calculators accurate?

They're a reliable starting point and generally more accurate than an old-fashioned plus-four chart, but results can still vary by a size depending on your shape and the style you're trying. Use the result as a first size to try on, not a final answer.

Why do bra sizes differ between brands?

Every brand fits to its own house block, wire shape and fabric, so a 34F in one brand can feel completely different to a 34F in another. This is normal and it's why trying a couple of sizes either side of your calculated size is worth doing when you try a new brand.

Does my bra size change over time?

Yes, weight changes, hormones, pregnancy and even the menstrual cycle can all shift bust size and shape. It's worth re-measuring every six to twelve months, or sooner if a bra that used to fit suddenly doesn't.

Does the band or the cup matter more for a supportive fit?

The band, which is why getting that number right matters more than people expect. Around 80% of a bra's support comes from the band, not the straps, so if you're choosing between sizing the band snugger or looser, snugger (but not tight) is usually the better call.

What if my measurements fall exactly between two sizes?

Try both. Sizing isn't perfectly linear between brands or styles, so the "in-between" result on a calculator sometimes fits better in one direction depending on the cut of a particular bra.

Is UK bra sizing the same as US sizing?

Band sizes are the same, but cup labelling differs from a DD cup upwards - UK sizing uses double letters (DD, FF, GG), while US sizing typically uses single letters (D, F, G) further up the alphabet, before switching to double letters at H+. Our size charts convert this for you.

Find your fit

Take our Bra Fit Quiz for a personalised size recommendation in under a minute, or head straight to shop by size to browse every style in your exact fit. If sister sizing applies to you, our F cup and FF cup edits are the easiest way to compare neighbouring sizes side by side